Even though relatively young as far as cities go, downtown Salem is not without its storied past or the buildings and structures to tell the tales. For instance, some buildings’ red, porous bricks were made at the state prison on State Street, only a few miles east of town. Also, Salem’s first jailhouse can be seen in the alley behind the Book Bin on Court Street, the bars still covering the windows of both the men’s and women’s jails. The tunnels leading from the jailhouse to the courthouse are not seen in the alley anymore, but purple glass tiles are in the sidewalk in front of the Book Bin. These glass tiles used to be clear and let in light the tunnels beneath. What were the tunnels used for? Some say Chinese people used them to avoid the streets of people who were hostile toward them. Another tunnel section was used as a shooting range for sighting rifles when the weather was inclement. And let’s not forget the five-foot copper grasshopper sculpture perching on the side of the Whitlock Building. Salem has managed to put together quite an interesting story in its youth. The following are five of the 45 or so historic buildings that add drama to Salem’s plot.
The Elsinore Theater
170 High Street
Salem’s modern structures host some mysterious tales, but perhaps the more interesting stories are told by a few of downtown’s older buildings. If you drive downtown, parking near the front of the Elsinore Theater will get you free parking for up to three hours. The Elsinore was built in 1926 and was destined to become the entertainment venue of the Willamette Valley. With an exterior designed to look like a castle, the Tudor Gothic structure houses a foyer reminiscent of more fanciful times with an interior of high, vaulted ceilings and grand staircases on either end. It was listed on the National Register of Historic Places (NRHP) in 1994.
Masonic Building, Franklin Building
101 High Street
North of the Elsinore theater on the Northwest corner of State and High Streets is the 1912 Masonic building. The six-story building is a concrete structure with dark beige bricks and hosts several masonic symbols. Flagpoles and balconies serve both artistic form and valued function. Initially, the Masons met on the top floor, the first floor housed a dry goods store, and the middle floors were office space. The building currently hosts office spaces and apartments and has a beautiful, spacious ballroom on the top floor. Known as the Franklin Building because it was once the location of the Ben Franklin Savings and Loan, it is listed on the NRHP.
Capitol Tower
388 State Street
Heading west down State Street, on the Southwest corner of State and Liberty, is the tallest office building in Salem. Known as the Capitol Tower, this 1927 building hosts gargoyles on the north corners of the building, and purple glass tiles cover the old underground tunnels on the sidewalk in front. Salem’s first skyscraper was controversial – it was lauded as unsightly. The building is listed on the NRHP.
Ladd and Bush Bank, US Bank
302 State Street
Heading West, at the end of the block, is the Ladd and Bush Bank on the Southeast corner of Commercial and State Streets. The architect of the bank, John Nestor (1836-1912), brought cast iron architecture from San Francisco to Portland in the 1860s. Nestor utilized cast iron for the arches and other ornamental details of this beautifully preserved architectural marvel. Once Salem’s first bank, it is now a branch of the US National Bank.
Salvation Army’s First Salem Location
241 State Street
A more humble building can be seen a block west of the Ladd and Bush Bank. On the north side of State Street, adjacent to the alley, is the site of Salem’s first Salvation Army. At the location is an inscription commemorating the December 28, 1886, inception of Salem’s Salvation Army, which was led by Captain Mary Stillwell.
Salem Historic Downtown Walking Tour
In only a few blocks, we’ve discovered several great stories embedded in Salem’s historical architecture. Expanding the tour will reveal there is a lot more to find, perhaps taking more than the few hours of free parking permitted in front of the Elsinore. Maybe it would be better to tour the town over the course of a few days. This guide of the Walking Tour, put together by historian John Ritter and made available through Travel Salem, will certainly help anyone who is interested in some of Salem’s historic structures. Interested people can also download this informative brochure to learn more about Salem’s historic buildings. The brochure includes a map, photos, and highlights of the building’s stories.
